Destination Report: Hanoi (Vietnam): What to do, see, eat and avoid

We came to Vietnam right before the pandemic, in February 2020 and spent a month in Da Nang. We wanted to return to Vietnam because we had a great experience with the food so we decided to come to Hanoi, which is know for its street food and we were not disappointed!  In this 2 part series blog post, we’ll share our favorite place to hit a la Anthony Bourdain but also our must do and see activities. Are you ready to explore Hanoi with all your senses?

Overall we gave Hanoi 3.2 out of 5 stars (based on our rating scale). Our accommodation was a good deal for the price we paid but nothing to come back for. Our apartment was a 15-minute walk from the Old Quarter which was a good location as this is where a lot of things are happening. Groceries were fine but it was hard to find organic food and we had to often negotiate on their market stall so we decided to opt for more mainstream grocery stores to load up our fridge. Food wise, we loved the variety of great restaurants and outstanding local businesses offering amazing Vietnamese food that we got to experience a LOT! While there are buses, we preferred using Grab when we had to move around. Most of our commute was done by food however. Unlike Da Nang, which has a great expat community, we felt that the community in Hanoi was lacking. Could we have missed the right expat groups on social media? Let us know!

Our five stars rating system:

• 1 star: We hated this place and definitely do not plan to come back.
• 2 stars: We did not like this place and do not plan to come back.
• 3 stars: We liked this place but do not plan to come back.
• 4 stars: We really liked this place & we might consider coming back.
• 5 stars: We loved this place and are actually considering coming back. This is a place we could call home someday. 

With that being said, let’s look into what we liked the most and what we recommend doing in Hanoi! 

Where We Traveled Hanoi, Vietnam

Number of Days 21 days (from April 4, 2023, to April 25, 2023)

Type of Travel Married Couple, Slow Travel/Nomadic, Price Conscious

Note: Unless specified otherwise, prices are in USD and were converted from the local currency (VND or Vietnamese Dong) to USD with the following exchange rate: 23,500 VND = 1 USD. 

Introduction

Hanoi is often referred to as the enchanting capital city of Vietnam that beckons travelers with its vibrant culture and captivating charm. Nestled along the banks of the Red River, Hanoi is a city that effortlessly blends its rich history with a bustling modern ambiance. As you explore its ancient streets, you’ll be immersed in a tapestry of captivating sights, sounds, and flavors. From the bustling markets of the Old Quarter, where the aroma of street food burst through the air, to the grandeur of French colonial architecture that adorns the city, Hanoi offers a captivating blend of tradition and modernity. Hanoi is a city that embraces its heritage while embracing the future, inviting you to embark on a journey of discovery, where ancient traditions and modern vibrancy intertwine in a truly captivating way.

What did we do, see and eat?

Let’s dig into our favorite places to eat, shop, and get entertained. To help you, we’ve included all the places that we call out below in the following Google Map. 

Our Favorite Sights/Activities

The Old Quarter

Our favorite sight was by far exploring the Old Quarter of Hanoi. Also known as the “36 Streets,” is a captivating neighborhood steeped in history that offers a glimpse into Hanoi’s past. As you wander through its narrow alleys and bustling markets, you will still see the remnants of traditional architecture, with narrow tube houses and wooden storefronts.
Fun fact: Each street in the Old Quarter was traditionally named after the goods sold there, such as Hang Gai (Silk Street), Hang Bac (Silver Street), and Hang Ma (Paper Street). Exploring the Old Quarter is like stepping back in time, immersing yourself in the vibrant tapestry of Hanoi’s history and cultural heritage.

We recommend that you start your exploration by booking a free walking tour like the Getting lost in the Hanoi Old Quarter – Free Walking Tour that we booked through the GuruWalk website. Once you are done with the tour you can keep exploring at your own pace or book another tour since there are a few exploring the Old Quarter.

Ninh Binh

Looking for a 2 nights / 3 days getaway from Hanoi? Check out our Ultimate Guide to Ninh Binh: A 3-Day Biking Itinerary for all the details you would ever need to visit this beautiful and underrated region of Vietnam.

Ha Long Bay

Looking for a 1 night / 2 days getaway from Hanoi? Check out our Ultimate Guide to Ha Long Bay: A 2 Day Boat Cruise Itinerary to dive more into what we’ve done and recommend in Ha Long Bay. 

Our Favorite Restaurants

Tons and tons of great street / local food in the street of Hanoi. Here are our top recommendations. They are all good but rather than rating all of them 3 stars, we tried to find the ones that were not as outstanding as others. Still all very good to try if you have the time!

Here are our top recommendations:

• ⭐️⭐️⭐️ Chả Cá Phan Quán – This was our first meal in Hanoi and it was mind blowing! The dish is quite simple with fish (well seasoned) & a lot of spring onion and dill. It is served with rice noodle, sauce, peanut & some spices. We also ordered spring rolls that were yummy. Highly recommended!
  Cost: 350K VND (~15 USD) for a big and nice set for 2 people.

• ⭐️⭐️ Bách Phương: Bún Bò Nam Bộ – Our 2nd food stop in Hanoi: Bûn Bon (beef salad). A delicious & simple bowl of semi-dry beef noodles with vegetables, bean sprouts, shallots and a secret recipe sauce that’s at the base.
  Cost: 33K VND (~1.5 USD) for a beef salad bowl.

• ⭐️⭐️⭐️ Bánh Xèo Tôm Nhảy Thanh Sang – Our 3rd food stop in Hanoi: Banh Xeo. An irresistible crispy, yet delicate, golden brown crepe, filled with pork & shrimp. Roll it with sprinklings of mung bean, mangos and bean sprouts and it’s incredibly yummy!
  Cost: 110K VND (~4.5 USD) for 2 people.

• ⭐️⭐️⭐️ Charsiu Sticky Rice (Hanoi Broken Rice) – Our 5th food stop in Hanoi: Hanoi Broken Rice! Stopped by this highly reviewed restaurant in #hanoi to try this dish we never had before. Various options to choose from (incl. broken rice). The pork belly w/ egg was 😋
  Cost: 45K VND (~2 USD) for a sticky rice bowl per person.

• ⭐️⭐️⭐️ Bún chả Hương Liên – Our 6th food stop in Hanoi! “Obama” bun cha. Aka the establishment that Obama visited in May 2016 with Anthony Bourdain. Got lucky as there was no wait. Everything was really good, fresh and very affordable too!
  Cost: 167K VND (~7 USD) for a nice set for 2 people.

• ⭐️⭐️⭐️ Sadhu Vegetarian Restaurant – OUR DATE NIGHT RECOMMENDATION! Our 7th food stop in Hanoi: AYCE vegetarian buffet at Sadhu. A feast of flavors with 70+ dishes to choose from in a really cool atmosphere. We stayed 3 hours in order to enjoy all the dishes we liked!
  Cost: 300K VND (~13 USD) for their AYCE menu per person.

• ⭐️⭐️⭐️ Bánh Cuốn Bà Hoành – Our 8th stop was for what we think is the best Bánh Cuôn in the city. Very local, super tasty and many options to choose from (incl. spring rolls & yummy sweet fried balls.
  Cost: 120K VND ~(5 USD) for a nice set for 2 people.

• ⭐️⭐️ Lian Hua Vegetarian – A pretty small restaurant but a nice lunch menu! Give it a try if you are looking for vegetarian food.
  Cost: 100K VND (~4 USD) for a lunch set for 2 people.
• ⭐️⭐️⭐️ Veggie Castle – A great AYCE Vegetarian restaurant.
  Cost: 90K VND (~4 USD) for their AYCE menu per person.

• ⭐️⭐️⭐️ Banh Mi 25 – The place for Banh Mi in Hanoi. We tried a few and this ended up being really good even with all the hype this place is about. Try to come before rush hour to avoid huge lines!
  Cost: 40K-60K VND (~2 USD) for a banh mi.

Our Favorite Sweets Spots

Here are our top recommendations:

• ⭐️⭐️⭐️ 2cream – Homemade Ice Cream – Great Vegan Ice Cream
  Cost: 350K VND (15 USD) for a nice set for 2 people.
• ⭐⭐ ️De Beurre – This new and hipster bakery that has good croissants, but not the best value! It is also new in town so will it last? Check Tiem Banh Hoan instead!
  Cost: 350K VND (15 USD) for a nice set for 2 people.
• ⭐️⭐️⭐️Tiệm Bánh Hoan – Found the best bakery in Hanoi! $0.5 for a fresh / crispy baguette & $0.5 for a delicious croissant. This place is always packed with locals which is usually a good sign for both quality & authenticity.
  Cost: 350K VND (15 USD) for a nice set for 2 people.

Our Favorite Grocery Stores/Markets

Grocery shopping in Hanoi can be quite challenging if you are looking for good produce. Of course you can buy on the street but you need to always negotiate and you never know if you get the right price so we gave up on adopting a more traditional option while sacrificing a bit of quality for the convenience.

Here are our top recommendations:

• ⭐️⭐️ Home Food – This was the closest (and only?) organic market we could find walking distance from our Airbnb. 
• ⭐️⭐️⭐️ Fujimart – Our go to groceries store for anything we could not find at the Home Food organic store 

What to avoid

While it’s great to call out what to check out, we think it is as important to also include what NOT to do. These are things/activities/places we stayed away from. Of course, the taste is personal and so your preference might vary.

• Tap water: It is generally recommended to avoid drinking tap water in Hanoi, as it may not be safe for consumption. Stick to bottled water or boiled water for drinking and brushing your teeth.
• Overpriced Tourist Traps: Be wary of certain tourist areas where prices can be significantly inflated. Take the time to explore different shots, local markets to discover more authentic and affordable experiences.
• Avoid Scams: Be aware of scams that target tourists like people that would offer what could be a free sample but turned out to be something you have to pay for. Also read about potential scam at the immigration. We felt that these are least common but remain vigilant. 
• Petty theft: Like any bustling city, it’s essential to remain vigilant and keep an eye on your belongings. Be cautious of your surroundings, especially in crowded areas to prevent any potential pickpocketing incidents. We fell for one without even noticing it. Mrs. NN lost her wallet but luckily there was just 20 USD or so in it, so not a big deal. 

Our Slow Travelers Tips

Slow travel is part of our philosophy. It gives us the opportunity to really connect with a place by not having to experience FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out) and getting unnecessarily stressed for being on a schedule. With slow travel, we can see all the iconic sights and have time to spare to find the more offbeat spots that most tourists miss. Most of the time, those are the absolute gems. And as this blog post explains, we spend much less by leveraging “local” pricing and being able to get long stay discounts.

Here are some tips to maximize a nice and enjoyable stay in Hanoi:

• Explore the food. Coming all the way to Hanoi and not exploring the local cuisine seems like a crazy idea to us. Food was actually the main reason we came to Hanoi and if you look at our recommendations you can see that during our 3 weeks, we definitely hit on that point. 
• Take the time to also explore the region outside of the city: Ninh Binh is a wonderful getaway for a weekend if you have the time. 
• Try Egg coffee. It was invented here in Hanoi, so you better make sure to try it!

What about the cost? 

To make our destination reports more manageable, we’ve split them into two parts. In part one (this post), we covered what to do, see, eat, and avoid. In part two (linked at the end of this post), we’ll delve into the costs and reveal all the juicy details about our budget and how much we spent during our stay. If the post isn’t linked yet at the bottom of this article, be sure to sign up for our newsletter so you can receive our cost of living post (and any future ones) as soon as they’re published. In the meantime, if you’re interested in numbers, feel free to check out our past destination reports.

Would you be interested in going to Hanoi? What type of Vietnamese food do you love & miss the most? Feel free to share your experience and ask questions by leaving a comment below.