Growing up in the French Alps was amazing for me. Every year since I was about four or five, I got to enjoy the snow and ski every season. Even after I moved to California, I still loved it. I had a season pass to South Lake Tahoe, where I could enjoy the great snow and amazing scenery. But Mrs. NN, didn’t like the cold much because she grew up in California. So, when we started traveling in 2018, we didn’t get to experience the snow much. But last month, we finally got to go on a week-long trip to Nozawa Onsen in Japan, where they have the best snow in the world! In this blog post, we’re excited to share our experience and give some tips for anyone planning to go skiing in Japan!
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What is Nozawaonsen
Nozawa Onsen is a charming hot spring resort town nestled in the northern part of Nagano Prefecture, Japan. Renowned for its natural hot springs, or “onsen” in Japanese, Nosawa Onsen is a great spot to relax as well as enjoying the great snow.
The town is characterized by its traditional Japanese architecture, including wooden ryokans (inns) and narrow stone-paved streets lined with shops, restaurants, and tea houses. It offers a nostalgic ambiance that transports visitors back in time.
What to do in Nozawa Onsen
The main attraction of Nozawa Onsen is, of course, its 13 onsen (aka hot springs). These mineral-rich thermal waters are believed to have healing properties and are perfect for unwinding after a day of skiing or hiking. One of the most famous hot springs in Nozawa Onsen is Ogama, a large public bath where visitors can even cook their own eggs in the hot water!
In addition to its hot springs, Nozawa Onsen is a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts. The bustling ski resort provides access to over 50 kilometers of ski slopes suitable for all levels of skiers and snowboarders. The town also offers opportunities for snowshoeing, snowmobiling, and other winter activities. It’s a snow paradise 🙂
How much time do you need to visit Nozawa Onsen
We stayed 5 nights and 6 days in Nozawa which is a great amount of time if you plan to enjoy the village, the resort and want to try all of the food available.
What did we do?
We ski every day and relax at the end of the day in the onsen. And in between we get to check out a few of the many restaurants scattered in the village. We also took half a day to visit the Snow Monkey who also have their own hot spring!
Here is a recap of our week:
Day 1 – Tokyo to Nozawa Onsen
When we landed at Tokyo airport, we caught a bus to Tokyo main station. Along the way, we stopped for delicious sushi. Then, we took the fast train to Iiyama station and a local bus to Nozawa Onsen. It took us less than 3 hours from door to door, which was really handy, especially for people living in Tokyo. Some locals even visit the resort just for the day!
Once in the village, we checked into our cozy lodge and started exploring the streets. For dinner, we tried some yummy ramen. There were so many restaurants close by, and the village was easy to walk around.
Day 2 to 4 – Skiing and Hot Springs
First, we rented all our gear since we didn’t bring any. Renting ski or snowboard equipment, helmets, gloves, jackets, and pants was affordable at $40 USD per person per day.
Then, we walked about 10 minutes from our lodge to the resort and had a great time skiing. We took a break for lunch at one of the resort restaurants. The resort offer a bunch of lift include two gondolas that bring you to the top of the mountain which is actually quite great for beginners!
After a fun day, we went back to our lodge for a quick rest before dinner.
To end the day, we relaxed in one of the village’s free hot springs. The hot springs are split into sections for men and women and are free to use, but they accept donations. Also don’t forget to bring a towel!
Day 5 – Snow Monkeys & Japanese Food
On our last day, we pay a visit to the Snow Monkeys. They have their own hot spring, which was a unique experience to watch. We took a bus from the village and spent half a day there. Truly worth it!
For dinner we got to enjoy some more Japanese food because why not? 😀
Day 6 – Going Home
To wrap us this wonderful week, we checked out of our lodge in the morning and went back to Tokyo for lunch. Then, we headed to our next stop: Okinawa which should be for another blog post 😉
Where to stay?
We strongly suggest staying in the village, as there is a wide array of accommodations to suit every preference.
Our personal favorite was Lodge Ueno Ski, where we had a fantastic stay. The staff were friendly. The rooms, while simple, were incredibly cozy and provided ample storage space and comfy Japanese style beds (tatamis). Plus, the powerful heater was an absolute lifesaver during the chilly winter nights when temperatures plummeted below freezing. Additionally, the lodge offers a delicious breakfast and convenient luggage storage options both before and after check-in.
If Lodge Ueno Ski isn’t available or doesn’t quite fit your preferences, feel free to explore other options using the search box below:
How to get there?
To reach Nozawa Onsen, you can consider the following options:
- Train: The nearest train station to Nozawaonsen is Iiyama Station. From major cities like Tokyo or Nagano, you can take the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Iiyama Station. From there, you can transfer to a bus or taxi to reach Nozawaonsen. The journey from Iiyama Station to Nozawaonsen takes approximately 30-40 minutes by bus or taxi.
- Bus: There are direct buses available from major cities like Tokyo, Nagano, and Osaka to Nozawaonsen during the winter ski season.
- Car: If you prefer driving, you can rent a car and drive to Nozawaonsen. The journey by car from major cities like Tokyo or Nagano takes approximately 4-5 hours, depending on road conditions and traffic. Nozawaonsen has parking facilities available for visitors.
How much did we spend?
Our 6-day stay in Nozawa Onsen was on the pricey side but it was totally worth it. In total we spent If you put the cost of travel aside, living on the island for a week only costed us $1,399 USD!
TL;DR; As a couple we spent a total of 1,399 USD for this ski getaway.
Note: this budget is as a couple so if you travel solo, your budget might differ.
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Here is our budget breakdown per spending category from the largest to the smallest:
| Category | Total Cost USD | Comments |
| Accommodation | $466.44 | This covers our 5 nights at the Lodge Ueno Ski |
| Recreational Activities | $466.36 | Gear rental + snow gear: $200 (3 days for Mr + 2 days for Mrs) Ski lift tickets for 3 days: $178 (3 full days for Mr. + 1.5 days for Mrs.) Snow Money tour: $86 |
| Local Transportation | $294.06 | This include our round trip train tickets from Tokyo on the high speed rail ($189) + local bus from the train station to the resort |
| Dining Out | $145.15 | This covered for 5 lunch and 5 dinner at restaurants |
| Groceries | $15.10 | Some fruits and snacks for our lodge |
| Snacks | $11.81 | Various snacks while outside |
| TOTAL | $1399.44 |
Others tips?
- Best Time to Visit: The snow season kicks off in December and stretches through to early spring. The prime window to visit is between January and February, when the snowpack reaches its peak depth, and the slopes are meticulously groomed.
- Rent Gear on Site: If you’re like us and lack space in your suitcase for bulky ski jackets and pants, fret not! The resort provides convenient rental facilities where you can easily acquire all the necessary gear.
- Take advantage of currency conversion: As of time of writing this post, 1 USD yields 150 Yen, marking a significant increase of 50% compared to five years ago when 1 USD equated to slightly over 100 Yen. This makes Japan considerably more affordable than pre-pandemic times.
- Don’t forget to bring a small towel to enjoy the onsen!
Our Bottom Line
In conclusion, our week-long adventure in Nozawa Onsen was nothing short of incredible. Growing up surrounded by the snowy peaks of the French Alps, the chance to experience Japan’s renowned powder snow was a dream come true for me. From the moment we arrived in the picturesque village, we were enchanted by its traditional charm and warm hospitality.
Days filled with exhilarating skiing on the slopes were perfectly complemented by relaxing soaks in the rejuvenating hot springs to close the day.
If you love skiing or snowboarding you must check out Nozawa Onsen! If you’ve been please let us know what your experience has been by leaving us a comment in the comments section below! And if you haven’t been, let us know if you would consider going!
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